Friday, November 02, 2007

Kolkata - show & tell

I've been lucky enough to get out and explore the city over the last couple of days so i'll share with you a little of what i've seen and learn't about the place...



Capital of West Bengal and considered by many the cultural capital of India, Kolkata played a key role in the British empire, acting primarily as its administrative centre.


If you read the English history books they will tell you the city was formed in 1698 when 3 villages were signed over to the British East India Company and merged to create a miniature London with wide boulevards, grand buildings, churches and museums. An Indian court has since ruled that the city in fact existed before the Brits arrived and so the Indian history books tell a somewhat more accurate story.


In 1756 an uprising of the poorer Indian classes recaptured the city and threw scores of the local aristocracy into a cramped, dark underground room below Fort William. Come morning 40 of them were dead, but the numbers in the news reports sent back to England seriously exaggerated the death toll and in usual UK tabloid manner the 'Black Hole of Calcutta' was born. Since then western media has continued to propagate the image with the 'Black hole' and Mother Theresa's struggle against filth and poverty being what most of us know of Kolkata today.



Serbian born, Mother Theresa dedicated her life to 'giving wholeheartedly to the poorest of the poor' and created a new order, Missionaries of Charity, in 1937 when she first arrived in India. Awarded the Nobel Peace Prize in 1979 she has been critised widely for accepting donations from corrupt businessmen and dictators, as well as for not addressing the root causes of poverty. For the most part, and certainly in Kolkata she is highly praised and loved.




The British left India and Kolkata many years ago but their influence remains in the architecture of the buildings and the city itself. Spread out along the great grey-green greasy banks of the Hoogley river the 2 halves of the city are connected by the impressive Howrah Bridge, which spans the river in a giant 450m single span and carrying more that 100,000 vehicles a day is probably one of the busiest bridges in the world.



Kolkata is also home to India's oldest and largest museum. Founded in 1841 and aptly named the Indian Museum the huge colonial building contains an impressively well organised collection of Indian art, sculpture, geological finds, anthropological exhibits and some rather gruesome aged stuffed beasts in the zoological department. Unfortunately photography within the museum is forbidden so you'll have to use your imagination.


I hadn't come to Kolkata with any preconceived ideas of the place but its vivacity, culture and energy is beyond what I could have imagined. Sure it has its downsides; filth, poverty, pollution (just like many other Asia and Western cities) but i'm pleased to have seen it with my own eyes and have something other than the image the media projects to attribute to the place.


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